INSPIRATION BEHIND
THE COLLECTION
‘Weaving the Unwoven’ is a collaboration between Churpina & Antoine tan-Newl, one of the last remaining traditional weavers in Malta. Weaving, one of the oldest trades globally, involves interlocking two sets of yarn or thread to create fabric. Sadly, modern machinery has replaced this hand-intensive skill that mimics the movements efficiently. However, Charlene Joan Sant asserts, “…we must accept this reality, but it is also our responsibility to resist the temptation to give up. We will lose another piece of our heritage.”
The same can be said to modern fashion trends, marked by mass-produced and disposable garments, which pose a threat to the industry. Thus, joining forces to push the boundaries of tradition makes complete sense. Having the opportunity to work alongside a traditional weaver before it is too late allows us to challenge traditional methods, raise awareness, and create a collection showcasing the strengths of traditional skills.
INSPIRATION BEHIND
THE COLLECTION
‘Weaving the Unwoven’ is a collaboration between Churpina & Antoine tan-Newl, one of the last remaining traditional weavers in Malta. Weaving, one of the oldest trades globally, involves interlocking two sets of yarn or thread to create fabric. Sadly, modern machinery has replaced this hand-intensive skill that mimics the movements efficiently. However, Charlene Joan Sant asserts, “…we must accept this reality, but it is also our responsibility to resist the temptation to give up. We will lose another piece of our heritage.”
The same can be said to modern fashion trends, marked by mass-produced and disposable garments, which pose a threat to the industry. Thus, joining forces to push the boundaries of tradition makes complete sense. Having the opportunity to work alongside a traditional weaver before it is too late allows us to challenge traditional methods, raise awareness, and create a collection showcasing the strengths of traditional skills.
ANTOINE VELLA
Following on his father’s footsteps, Antoine Vella started weaving at the age of 8 from a shop in Rabat. It took him over 8 years of constant practice to master the skills of a traditional weaver. He has honed his skills for over 35 years as the 7th generation of the Vella family of weavers. Working on a 200-year-old wooden loom, he creates weaves mainly from cotton and sheep’s wool.
Antoine weaves using a warp and shuttles, which he then stretches onto the loom to work on. Using both hands to weave and both legs to manage the foot pedals, he brings the design to life with a ‘click and a bang’.
The looms can produce various materials. In Malta, all traditional clothing and bedding used to be hand-woven on looms. Bedspreads were typically passed down through generations. Nowadays, the most common requests are for rugs, table mats, and throws made from a blend of cotton and wool.
CHURPINA x
ANTOINE TAN-NEWL
In 2023, Charlene Joan Sant, founder of local brand Churpina, was working on implementing off-cut fabrics in merch tags to promote sustainability, an important position of the brand’s core principles.
As she cut long, thin strands of spandex, she realized there was an opportunity to transform them into elastic, spandex thread to put to better use. Charlene Joan contacted the Malta Crafts Foundation, who introduced her to artisans skilled in traditional local textile manufacturing.
The idea started coming to life after numerous attempts and challenges, working cohesively at Antoine tan-Newl ‘s workshop. The preliminary works were presented to the Malta Crafts Foundation at the Premju Ġieħ l-Artiġjanat Malti 2023. ‘Weaving the Unwoven’ won first place and became eligible for co-funding. This meant the project could undergo the necessary research and development steps to create not just a collection, but a practical idea that uses endangered skills in modern applications.
The collection is being exhibited at
Spazju Kreattiv, St. James Cavalier, Valletta.
